The Beautiful South, the Normie North, and the Elusive Climax – Hong Kong 2024 Part 3

July 3, 2024 9:51 pm Published by rado Leave your thoughts

On the quiet morning of the last day of the trip, I checked out of the hotel and headed to a nearby bus stop in an uncommonly empty Causeway Bay. Under a motorway overpass, I spotted my double-decker bus already pulling away – but the driver graciously stopped and let me board. On a previous visit, another driver even gave us a free ride when we had no change.

There were only a few passengers, so I claimed the front seat on the upper deck. We soon climbed onto an elevated highway and glided southeast, diagonally crossing the quieter east end of Central, toward shiny, suburban Repulse Bay. Along the way we passed the horse racing hub Happy Valley, before diving into a long tunnel beneath the hills.

Not long after, we stopped – light traffic accident ahead. An out-of-order minibus had stalled and blocked a lane. The scene was surprisingly calm, with everyone, including the police, just patiently waiting until it got pushed aside about fifteen minutes later.

Life is a beach

Once we emerged from the tunnel, it was clear we were no longer in the thick of the city. The road curved high above rugged coves, framed by steep, green slopes and sea views – no office buildings, just a string of villas, boutique hotels, and beaches. A proper riviera feel. Repulse Bay, one of the more developed seaside enclaves, was my stop. I got off next to the famous building with a hole in it, from where the surreal, undulating apartment tower known as The Lily loomed in the distance.

The beach was just down a flight of stairs. A few people were strolling, and one jogger passed by in a full-face sun hat and mask combo – dedicated sun avoidance in action.

I sat down on a bench at a small pier, where two young Western expats were deep in a philosophical life-goals chat – as one does. Then moved on to a nearby temple, buzzing with both tourists from the region and locals visiting for New Year’s blessings. The many deity statues had plaques – some noting symbolic meanings, like Yue Lao, the god of love and marriage; others listing which colonial administrator had unveiled them. Naturally, there was also a fat Buddha.

On the way back to the main road, I admired the fortified mansions lining the hills and wondered who actually lives in these elegant compounds. Among the fancy cars, the most striking weren’t European luxury models but sleek new Chinese brands like BYD, which frankly looked better. Eventually, I boarded the return bus, with lunch already on my mind.

Retro future

Back in Causeway Bay, I went to track down one of HK’s lesser-known design landmarks: a pedestrian overpass I’d only seen in photos. These retro footbridges, especially those from the 60s and 70s, complement the city’s skyline with their weird charm. The most iconic of them is the circular “McDonald’s” bridge above the Paterson Street tram stop on Hennessy Road – its curves reportedly inspired by the nearby McD’s building, home to Hong Kong’s first branch in 1975.

The afternoon light bounced off the concrete canyons, and the old signage and 60s-era façades gave the whole area a quiet, timeless cool.

Next up, a meal I’d been meaning to try since Japan: a visit to the famous Ichiran ramen, known not just for its tonkotsu soup but also for its antisocial dining concept.

You sit alone in a cubicle with a curtain in front. The food appears without ever seeing a person – no staff, no customers in sight. You order via vending machine and tick boxes on a paper form – spice level, noodle firmness, extras. The app version didn’t load, but a kind staffer filled mine out. The ramen? Pretty solid. Though I still prefer Ippudo. And the egg came whole and unpeeled, which feels like a bit of a dare for the clumsy among us.

When I were a lad this was all fields

I continued west along the Wan Chai waterfront, and just before the Expo Centre, stumbled upon a brand new subway hub – Exhibition Centre – complete with its own bus terminal. Not long ago this whole area was a chaotic construction pit. The next few hours were loosely dedicated to some New Year’s shopping, though most places were shut.

First stop was the familiar Wan Chai Computer Centre. Not the cheapest place in town, but good variety – especially for used goods. With the holiday in full swing, most stalls were shuttered, but a couple were open. A cheerful shop lady had brought her kid along and charmingly referred to her boss as “my master.” Both were eager to help, but I didn’t really need anything, and prices weren’t much better than back home.

Dragon hunter

I hopped on the subway to a new district for me – Sham Shui Po. Over in Kowloon, this no-frills, working-class neighbourhood is known for its giant electronics market and laid-back, chatty locals. Sadly, everything tech-related was closed for the holidays.

No matter. I wandered on and hit the jackpot: a whole block of shops selling toys, decorations, and festive knick-knacks, plus a street crammed with phone accessories. My prize? Dragon toys. Mission complete. I said goodbye to the neighbourhood’s chilled-out charm and made for the MTR.

Middle Kingdom express

Next stop was something spectacular: the West Kowloon Terminus, a mega station opened in 2018 linking HK to cities all over mainland China. It’s wedged between Austin Station and the swanky Elements mall, right next to the ICC tower – the tallest building in the city.

The structure is impressive, with a massive open concourse and views straight to the tracks – but figuring out how to actually get around it? Not so easy. Politically, it’s a bit controversial due to joint immigration checkpoints with mainland authorities. Practically, though, it’s a fast track to Guangzhou, Shanghai, Beijing and beyond.

Culinary epiphany

And then – there it was. A Michelin logo glinting in the distance. The legendary Tim Ho Wan. I circled around, navigated through escalators and corridors, and landed in front of the promised dim sum paradise. But something was off. Staff were busy cleaning and didn’t look thrilled to see me.

A guy scribbled 16:30 on a piece of paper and flashed it in my face. Ah yes – closing early for CNY. Still, there were 30 minutes to go, and I politely insisted on a quick visit. They let me in.

The atmosphere was like a modern take on a classic teahouse, with panoramic views over the terminal. My order – crispy baked BBQ pork buns and slippery steamed rice rolls – came fast. And wow. Probably my second-best dumpling experience ever, just behind an unassuming place in Hualien, Taiwan.

Be prepared

Post-feast, I made a dry run to the Airport Express station to scope out the route. My plan was to watch the fireworks from near West Kowloon, then exfiltrate fast. The path to the underground station was a winding one – through the Elements mall, up and down ramps and corridors, overpasses, signage confusion, the works. I asked staff if trains run late – they assured me all was fine.

Tourists need not apply

With a little time left, I decided to hop over the mountains to Sha Tin, a more residential district I knew from Ivy Ho’s understated film Claustrophobia. On the train, I was the only foreigner – rare in Hong Kong. Just regular locals and one nosy European.

The vibe was humble and relaxed, with lots of high-rise condos like the ones in every photo of the city. A short walk from the station took me past a meat market tucked under an apartment block and into a quiet riverside park. Locals were out enjoying the sunset, including a photographer beside me with an old-school DSLR. Remember those? I lingered a bit, then made my way back toward West Kowloon.

Keep walking

My plan was to watch the fireworks from the plaza in front of the high-speed train station, but most people seemed to be heading to the West Kowloon Cultural District – a big, open peninsula with direct views of the harbour. I joined the crowd briefly just to soak in the atmosphere before heading back toward the terminal.

But distance in Hong Kong can be deceptive. The walk back to the station took longer than expected. Between the cultural district and the station lies the massive International Commerce Centre. I made the mistake of trying a different route, which led me to a maze of blocked streets, pedestrian detours, tunnels, and even a deserted underground bus garage. Eventually, I ended up – somehow – back inside the Elements mall, now exhausted and disoriented.

Going out with a bang

After what felt like an urban RPG quest, I finally reached the correct tunnel… only to find it locked. The station entrance was closed, and dozens of people – myself included – were bewildered, staring at a firmly shut glass door at exactly 8 PM. Peak Hong Kong moment. Through the windows, only a sliver of the skyline was visible. Not ideal for fireworks viewing.

I asked a security guard, who led me down to a hidden exit by an ice rink. Seconds later, I burst outside, found some higher ground, and barely made it in time for the first firework. The display was loud and spectacular – like New Year’s Eve but live and in full colour. No drones or gimmicks, just classic HK skyline magic. And yes, it was worth it.

As the last sparks faded, I headed back into the mall, this time navigating the path to the Airport Express with zero confusion. It was time to leave.

Airside

Last time I left from here, I took a local friend’s advice and used a public swimming pool for a pre-flight shower. This time, I wasn’t taking chances. The lounge quoted an outrageous fee, so I resorted to Plan C: lock myself in a bathroom stall and clean up with wet wipes. Not ideal in sticky summer, but in winter, it’ll do.

The airport felt strangely empty. Only two restaurants were open – one Western, one Asian. After tipping generously, the cashier still cheekily asked $1 for a plastic beer cup. He got the tip anyway. The cup was on him.

Small world

As I waited at the gate, something caught my eye: a sweatshirt with my employer’s logo. I approached the man wearing it, expecting an American colleague. Turns out, the sweatshirt belonged to his son – also from my exact office. A fellow countryman. Small world indeed. They were traveling together on a family trip, and apparently, we really are everywhere.

The night (Air)bus home

The ride home was aboard a Lufthansa A340-600 – a rare, long, four-engine beast of a plane. Longer than an A380, and almost the length of the biggest 747. It climbs like an old man on a ladder, but I was excited. I hoped to spot the skyline on takeoff, but we circled the wrong way – no views this time.

The cabin was 2-4-2, and I had a window seat. The guy next to me relocated to an empty row, then came back explaining a mom and baby needed the space. A few minutes later, the crew moved him back – apparently, mom was re-seated elsewhere. I got the whole row to myself, which on a 14-hour flight makes all the difference.

Somewhere above southern China, I looked out at the glittering sprawl of the Greater Bay Area – Hong Kong, Shenzhen, Guangzhou… the mega-city of tomorrow, already alive tonight.

So long, and thanks for all the bao

And that’s that: a weekend of impressions, spontaneity, no luggage, and barely more travel time than actual stay. Would I recommend it? Absolutely. It’s liberating, but only if you’re well-prepped – cards, cash, data, insurance. Long-haul travel throws surprises. Pack light, but prepare for everything. My only regret? Not using a fanny pack – those heavy swinging pockets disrupt the chi.

Until next time, Hong Kong. Stay awesome.

Tags: hong, hong-kong-2024, hongkong, kong

Categorised in: Photos, Travel

This post was written by rado

tourist wannabe

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